This was meant to be a blog post on the double brewday that
I did yesterday. I finally got round to re-brewing the Nelson Sauvin stout that
I brewed in January for AG0010, and then whilst I was brewing that, I tasted a
bottle of AG0020, the First Love, Fruit Salad IPA. It was bitter as all hell as
I’d not scaled the amount of hops with the lower grist bill.
It was meant to be a discussion on all of that, but it’s not
going to be. That may be later, today, this blog post is about a very important
lesson I learned yesterday. Mash Strike Temperatures.
I live in Manchester, and for the most, it’s not so warm that
the temperature plays much of a roll in the mash (it’s hell on the fermentation
when it’s cold here). I've been brewing since September and for the most, it’s
been pretty cold. So I've gotten used to certain “rules” about certain parts of
the brew.
I read most of the How To Brew website by John Palmer, the
bit pertaining to this is (this page) where it says “generally the initial
"strike water" temperature is 10-15°F above the target mash
temperature”. I also got similar information at a Homebrew meet once where a
few people were talking about the mash. It was said that as a rule, to mash in
about 10°C above your desired mashing temperature.
This “rule” has worked well for me the last 20 brews for the
last 9 months, to the point that I even have it as a set text on my brewsheet.
I just start the brew off, heat the water up to 10°C above my desired mash
temperature, and away I go.
I was tired as all hell yesterday due to problems at work
the night before (not so important, mainly that I was tired) but I got up after
4.5 hours sleep to start the water heating up for my mash, and away I went.
I was using 6.525 kg of various malts with a mash in of 16.3
litres of strike water at 74°C as I wanted a mash of 64°C as I wanted to finish
with 20 litres of 1.069 wort. After the boil, I checked the gravity with my
refractometer and it was reading at 1.060. Something’s wrong here. I double
checked with 2 different hydrometers, and I also checked the calibration of the
refractometer. They all read true, it was 0.009 lower than desired. This is
quite a lot when dealing with gravities. This meant that unlike the last 10-15
brews where I got 70% efficiency, this was sadly running at 61%.
I was racking my brains for what I’d done wrong. I
re-visited all the calculations, checked the sheet, I honestly couldn't see
what I’d done wrong.
Remember, that this was happening whilst I was doing a
second brew of an IPA made with Amarillo, Centennial, Chinook, and Exp. 366 (bittering
done by Galena). For this, I was using 6.21 kg of malts into 15.5 litres of
strike water, again at the “rule” temp of 74°C strike water to get a final 22.5
litres of 1.059 wort. I performed the brew as I've done so many times before, I
recirculated about 3 times (in case the mash extraction had been the problem) and
it seemed to go well.
Until I cooled and checked the gravity. This time, instead
of the 22.5 litres of 1.059, I got 22.5 litres of 1.050 wort.
By this time, I’m doing my nut trying to work out what the
problem was. If I’d got any hair, I would have pulled it out. The only thing I
could think that was different to the previous 22 brews I have done was that
yesterday, in Manchester, it was pretty unnaturally warm.
I did manage to get to the logical conclusion regarding
mashing temperatures, and strike water temperatures, etc. I did a bit of research and came across a whole
load of websites that have various strike water calculations on them (I’ll let
you Google them). Enough that I started to wonder why I’d never looked into
this before, but the reason was simply that in the past, it’s worked for me how
I did it.
The bit that got me was “To calculate the required strike
temperature to achieve your desired mash temperature, the following equation
can be used (adapted from “Brewing”, M Lewis and T Young, Aspen Publishers Inc,
2001, pg 102):Strike Temp =desired mash temp x (litres water + (0.4 x kg malt))
– (0.4 x kg malt x malt temp) / litres water”
I put this into my brewsheet and measured the temperature of
the grain, it is at 25°C (remembering that my house was about 13°C only 3
months ago, this is a massive increase). This when put into the brewsheet with
the new equation gave me a strike water temperature of 67.92°C, to get a mash
temperature of 62°C or 70°C to get a mash temp of 64°C.
As a note, I've found that I start to get terrible extraction
efficiency from doing mashes too warm, thus why I mash for longer at lower
temperatures. This does have a knock-on effect that I end up with higher
attenuated beers which means they can be more alcoholic, and less residual sweetness.
But I’m usually fine with that.
So, these new, lower strike temps are quite a bit lower than
the 74-75°C I usually mash at. This, with the above note, would probably
explain when I got such awful efficiency yesterday.
I then manipulated the calculation to let me know the mash
temperature yesterday, with the grain being so warm, and it seems that I was
mashing at about 67.25°C. This is at the upper end of what’s fine for mashing,
but I've always had problems at that end of the scale with efficiency.
So, take it from me, and my learning curve way to brewing,
the strike temperature is another variable to add into the mix, and one that
can have drastic effects on the way your brew goes.
I guess this shows one advantage of biab brewing. I usually mash in a bit low and then raise the temperature in steps to my final mashing temp. Guess with your setup such a multi-stage mash is not really possible. As I understand it starting low gives the beta-amylase a better chance at breaking down the starches too.
ReplyDeleteMashing low does indeed help break down the starches to actual fermentable sugars. Thus why I generally do a long mash at a lower temp (62-64) rather than the, I guess more standard 64-67.
ReplyDeleteI don't have the ability to heat up the mash when it's in, other than adding hotter water, which is what I do for the sparge.
I am just going to have to take more care over the temperature of the grain and adjust my strike temperature accordingly, it's all good.
Oof, that's a lot of maths just to get the right starting temperature for your water! Who knew Manchester coul dget as warm as 25C?!
ReplyDeleteStill, perhaps when you taste the finished product it will be all good.
As you know, I'm not too fussed about the more technical side of home brewing, but the next AG I do I'll definitely try and keep the temperature down and brew for a bit longer and see if it improves my beer. :)
I am going to perform an experiment whereby I mash (and brew up) at incrementing temperatures, so that I can see the effects, and see what temperature I like/dislike.
ReplyDeleteYou can be part of the tasting panel if you like?